Kyle Warren Dogs

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Before we get started, let’s all get on the same page— to clear up some controversy over what a dog can do, what a dog should do and what kind of dog is it.

A tracking dog. For all intents and purposes, a dog that has been trained to take scent without a scent article, and follow the scent path of the subject that lies within the footprint or a lead-length of the actual track shall be called a TRACKING DOG.  This is a very common and useful resource for law enforcement because most often, the tracks that they are dealing with on the job are between 20 minutes to two hours old — and due to it being a criminal scenario, there is usually not a scent article available to the handler.

Under most scent conditions there will be human odor / vapor (not dead skin cells known as rafts; depending upon the footwear of course) available to the dog within the actual footprints of a track that is two hours or younger.  Certainly on hard surfaces and completely sunny areas on hot days this is not likely even on young tracks.  This odor / vapor most often does not last nearly as long as the rafts (solid / liquid / vapor – composition) that have fallen off the subject’s exposed skin (often just hands, head and maybe arms; as in your upper body parts) and clothes.

On vegetative surfaces a tracking dog will also key into the vegetative disturbance made by the subject.  This can enhance the overall scent picture and make it a little easier to follow in pristine wilderness settings, but when there are a bunch of humans tracks all over a large vegetative area that are the same age as the subject’s tracks, and the dog follows the correct set of tracks,  then this tells you that the dog is still following the human odor / vapor and not the vegetative odor / vapor.

A trailing dog. A TRAILING DOG is following the “scent path” of the subject, not the track.  A trailing dog certainly can follow a track if there is one available. But if trained properly, it will focus on the highest concentration of the scent path — which often is not where the actual track of the subject was laid.  Again, the track does offer human odor / vapor, but for a shorter amount of time — depending upon the scent conditions.

A trailing dog is trained regularly on aged trails, and should be capable of doing trails at least up to 24 hours old.  Trailing dogs should be deployed in the first operational period (12 hours), but when trained well they can respond on 24 – 48 hour old trails if scent conditions permit them to do so.  I have only seen a few instances in which a well-trained trailing dog could not pick up scent on a trail aged 24 hours or younger: it many not be easy, but a dog should always able to get a direction of travel at the very least.  Trailing dogs that train on trails ranging in age from    0 – 24 hours old regularly are a terrific resource to search and rescue and law enforcement. As with all resources at an incident, knowing how to appropriately utilize them to get the most out of them does not always happen.

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Methods. I have trained my own trailing dog with the highly successful, proven tracking methods practiced by the Royal Mounted Canadian Police (RCMP), the Dutch Police (for hard surface tracking), world class schutzhund competitors, and the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) United States Border Patrol Search and Rescue Division: BORSTAR.  These are some of the most respected groups in the world of tracking. I honestly feel that a blend of all of these — in addition to learning scent’s ability to travel over time due to climatic and terrain conditions — is the perfect way to make the ultimate search and rescue trailing dog.  There will be an additional tie-in, in the aged trails section ahead.

I best learned how scent behaves when I started running my completely blind trails with my dog. Through solid foundational training, I could trust her body language communication— and ultimately, in a very reasonable amount of time, start completing the trails.  Every training log I do includes a GPS track on a topographical map — with the subject’s track (in blue) on it, and my dog’s track (in red) superimposed over the subject’s track.  This is really where the handler starts to make their learning 3-D in regards to scent movement. Everything with me comes in threes, and the list that applies here is: teach your dog, read your dog, then trust your dog.  You cannot trust a dog that does not have quality foundational work.

Known and unknown trails. My ratio of known to unknown trails is roughly 75 percent known to 25 percent unknown.  There are a variety of ways to set up known trails to get different benefits out of them, including flagged, explained routes and spotter assistance.

On flagged trails, you know exactly where the track is — and the handler can immediately notice the moment the dog’s body language changes. This is where you can learn to read your dog and teach your dog.  I run these trails until the dog has a solid grasp on the task.

Explained routes are good because they give the handler confidence when the dog is working in the right direction but they don’t know exactly where the track is — so they trust their dog’s communication more. When you finally print up the topo map with the GPS tracks on it, you can see how the scent was truly behaving.

Spotter assistance is when the person out with you knows where the trail goes, and either can tell you where it goes as you move through it, or can tell you when you have shot X distance past the turn or drifted X distance from the track.

All of these methods (and then some) are really useful for enhancing your understanding of scent movement and trusting your dog.  The unknown trails are difficult first and foremost because nearly every handler’s confidence goes down the tubes when we don’t know where the track goes — therefore we tend to not trust our dog.  But there’s nothing but bad news to come when we become insecure about what our dog is doing, or if it’s right.

Remember that the very best trailing teams complete approximately 70 percent of their blind trails. That’s even questionable to me: how much time are they being given, and for what age and what length tracks?  But nonetheless, this is super hard stuff! Leading statistics say the best tracking / trailing dogs are only going to be scent specific 80 percent of the time.  These are the best teams — true specialists out there training hard and training right all the time. Amazing resources, but not robots! I forget that myself sometimes.

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Scent article collection

Ideally, the only two people that will have touched your scent article are the subject and the handler. Anyone other than those two start to create a less than perfect scent article. That’s the bottom line.

I have worked off of “dirty” articles in the past, but only if all of those who touched the article were standing there for the dog to rule out. And I personally don’t recommend this. Your dog should not have any trouble with your scent — because it is not trailing you.  Remember the percentages that I listed earlier: a dirty article just reduces those already challenging numbers.

Storage

The scent article should be bagged and brought along with the handler in case you need or want to re-scent the dog. The bag should be sealed shut, because you don’t want additional scent trickling out onto the ground, which could, in rare cases, make for a difficult scent picture for the dog to have to think about.

Age of Article

It should be standard practice to have a scent article that is at least as aged as the trail —because that is your real-life scenario.  In training I think that most people overlook this. I have done enough old trails with hot articles to make it debatable, but since that will never happen on a real search, you should train for the real deal.

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Safety
The truth is you are in the wrong line of work if you are truly concerned for your safety. I’m joking here, but not entirely. Prior to going out into the field, be aware of any known environmental hazards.

Safety equipment. I know many people recommend wearing safety glasses, but most of them haven’t been behind a trailing dog — or I wonder what their secret is. Within 5 minutes, my safety glasses are so fogged up that I’m at more risk of running into trees and injuring myself at that point. So I do recommend that you protect yourself, but glasses pose problems for many handlers. I prefer to wear a ball cap, and as I go through heavy brush either use my free arm as a close head shield, or angle my head downward so I can just see my dog and where I’m walking while going through the eye-poking vegetation.
I do wear high visibility clothing if I’m trailing in an urban environment. And if in an urban environment, the handler should have at least one safety flanker for managing traffic.

Have the utmost control over your dog. In an urban environment, you may often need the dog to stop promptly at streets. In wilderness environments, you may need to let go of the lead at times when going down steep hills, on uneven terrain and through dense brush. In all of these cases, the dog needs to be able to stop on command and resume working when commanded to do so.  In these situations I have an actual command for this: “wait.” Once I the coast is clear or I have gathered up the lead then we immediately resume.  The wait command basically means to pause or freeze.

Water. Bring water for you and your dog.  Make your flankers lighten the load by carrying a bottle or two. We’ll go over resting your dog in a future section but in short, give the dog frequent water breaks, cool her off and moisten those nasal passages.

Radios. You and your flanker should both have two-way radios to communicate — so if distance starts to increase between the two of you, then you are covered.

Lights. Night trailing must always have at least three light sources.  This way if one goes dead, you are still covered. It is good to have a strong, long-range LED light, and a good quality headlamp. Make sure your flanker is close to you because they must keep you informed of any hazards that they might see on the GPS topo map that you may not be able to see.

First aid. Of course, always bring a first aid kit for both you and your dog.

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Line Handling

Casting. Casting is strategically navigating the dog through or around its environment to gain scent at the start of the trail, or to regain scent after the dog has given the handler a negative, or when the dog has scent but is having a problem establishing a direction of travel.  During casting, the lead may be taut or loose. The dog has not committed to a direction or trail while casting; it is looking to do so.

Loose or taut? This is a highly debatable topic. In my experience I have not seen any handler maintain a constantly loose lead, or alternate from a loose lead to a taut lead, and be successful on the trail.  Not to say that it cannot be done, but it poses some significant challenges. I believe that the best communication between handler and dog always occurs when the lead is consistently taut, and the dog is absorbing the same presentation from the handler. This makes for a true “line of communication.”  And I try to keep the lead on the same side of my body as the hand holding it.

Asking the Question. There are several different methods to teaching a trailing dog to communicate with you.  The method that I feel is best is asking the question— “ Are you on trail? Are you in scent of your subject?” What this system offers the handler is a way to simply communicate with the dog as to whether it is in scent or out of scent.
I prefer to be approximately 7-9 feet behind my dog while trailing, and will often give her the entire 15 feet of rope while casting.  The handler should hold the lead as if holding a coffee mug — in front of you, with the lead entering your closed fist from the bottom up. To ask the dog the question: With a slow, steady inward torque on the lead you want to say your track command in a passive tone.  The handler’s wrist should twist down, and in doing so, your pinky is moving toward your stomach or chest.  The amount of additional tension created by asking the question will vary from dog to dog based on the “hardness” of the dog.
It is normal for the dog to stop trailing and look at you when you do this the first few times. Just encourage the dog to get back to work, and perhaps ask the question with a little less pressure.

Praise. There are only two times where I will give the dog verbal praise while trailing.
One is when we are on trail/ in scent when I ask the dog the question, and the dog digs in and surges forward into the trail. It should take about a full second or slightly longer to ask the question — pause with the additional tension on the lead for just one second to see how the dog responds.  As the handler, you must release the additional tension on the lead in the same manner that you created the tension, saying “goood”— in a passive and positive tone. Obviously, to teach this correctly the trails must be completely known trails.
The other time is when the dog veers off trail and you ask the question — and the dog responds by giving you a negative.  Once the dog gets this communication down, you should be able to rely on your dog telling you whether it is in scent or not when you ask.

Timing. I only ask my dog the question when she is committed and pulling into the harness for 15-30 feet.  The timing of asking the dog the question is based on distance, depending on how long it takes her to regain scent from a troubleshooting area of the trail. In these situations, I usually wait a little longer because the dog is unsure until she really sorts out the scent picture more clearly. If the dog glues itself to the trail quickly and is confident, then I’ll ask sooner rather than later.

When to teach asking the question. This method is best taught on younger trails, such as 20-60 minute old trails.  This is because most often we can guarantee that our target odor will be directly in the track of the subject. This enables the handler to read the dog more clearly — and communicate more clearly as well. Do make sure to try to do this on days that are not really windy, as wind will make this more difficult in the foundational stages.
When running these trails, if the dog gets a full lead length off the actual track you can ask the question. If the dog then continues to dig in and travels away from the track, you can ask it more assertively. But don’t change the amount of tension in the lead when asking the question. By asking in these situations, I can call the dog’s bluff — because I know where the track is and that there is scent available.
It is common for the dog to veer back towards the track after you ask more assertively.  If the dog continues to surge away from the track after asking assertively several times, then you could give a verbal “Pfui” or whatever your equivalent “No” command would be.  Do the best you can in these situations to not give line checks. The more I am around trailing dogs, the more I feel that lead corrections are often more harmful to the task than helpful. So I will give a line check for known distractions like animal remains, but not for too many other things. Usually if the dog stops and smells the same spot for more than few seconds, it is likely not the rafts of your subject.

Pace. As I follow the dog, I don’t slow down my pace when asking the question, even if veering off trail. This will cue the dog. I want the dog to give me a negative, at which time I give the dog praise: “goood” — in a more passive and positive tone. Then I cast the dog back from where we came in the direction of the track. Once the dog hits the track and drives into it, wait until it has taken the track 15 feet or more prior to asking the question.

Steering your dog. Steering occurs when the dog starts to drift to one side or the other on trail, and the handler does not stay behind their dog. So the dog will feel tension on its harness from the side the handler is on. On an unknown trail, the dog may possibly be steered off the trail. On a known trail, the handler is forcing the dog to go back to the track. But this is an incorrect method (and in this situation, unintentional).
This is a very common problem and handlers need to be doing almost as much side-to-side motion at times as forward motion.

Negatives. A negative is when your dog pops its head up or becomes noncommittal due to a loss or lack of scent.  When the dog gives you a clear negative that you can read, you should immediately give the dog praise and cast the dog back from where you came.  The handler will also get negatives when there are surface changes — but know that if there are gaps in the scent picture and / or a huge change in the scent picture, the dog will pop its head up as it enters this terrain change.  Make sure to cast forward and wide in these situations.

Aged trails. Asking the dog the question evolves a bit as we enter the world of aged trails.  This is because due to the potential for extensive scent movement, and the fact that there could likely be no odor in the actual track of the subject anymore, we give the dog much more flexibility in how true it is to the actual track.
When I ask the question, if the dog is in scent anywhere — and committing to a direction even if it’s a couple hundred of yards away from the track — I’ll still praise the dog and continue to follow it as if this were a blind trail. If the dog has been trained properly at the point where the dog runs out of scent entirely, or the dog can distinguish the difference between a higher and lower concentration of scent, it will give a negative — at which time I’ll look at my weather and terrain, and circle my dog back from where I came in wider and larger casts until I hit the trail again. As long as this happens, the handler should be in fairly good shape.
There are limitations as to what we can demand from the dog, especially since we don’t know exactly where scent is most available on an individual aged trail. Sometimes the dog will exhibit behavior that indicates to the handler that they are directly on top of the track and they are running many yards off of the actual track. This is because the dog has found the “fringe line,” and is riding on that definitive line between no scent and scent.  The morphed scent picture between the actual track and the fringe line where the dog is was too difficult to continue to get a direction of travel, given how the rafts moved on that particular trail.

Inadvertent line checks, inconsistent tautness on the lead, and steering your dog are all good reasons why your best trailing dogs are usually going to be independent, confident and have willful personalities. In other words, they’ll look for that trail, regardless of the mess their handler might seem to be making.

Resting the dog. It is very important that you rest the dog periodically. Give it water, and let it re-focus and cool down.  I prefer to rest my dog at problem-solving points.  After we have been trying to sort it out for a couple minutes or so, I’ll give her the “break” command, which means to stop trailing and return to the handler for a rest.  Very often, after taking a rest for 1-5 minutes, the dog, refreshed, will pick up the trail quickly.  The other time that I will occasionally break the dog is while she is solid on trail and cruising along. If she has not been rested at all, I may feel that it would be good for her to rest in order to prevent her performance from deteriorating. I may also just have her take a break because she is overdue and just wants to keep going.  The dog must be accustomed to stopping and going.

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Conditioning. Both the handler and dog need to be in outstanding physical condition to perform well at trailing.  Unless, you have slow and methodical dogs, you will need to strengthen those legs and get that cardio improved.  Running, hiking, swimming, etc. are all great forms of exercise for the dog but there’s really only way one to get into shape for trailing — and that is simply to trail!

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The find and reward. Many people have their trailing dog give a trained indication upon finding the subject.  I certainly can see this being useful for law enforcement scenarios, where you don’t have any idea what the person looks like. But for search and rescue, it should not be a problem.  I personally don’t have a trained indication with my dog, but I do always wait to have the subject reward her until she intently stares at them or jumps on them.  I have the subject play with the dog for a good five minutes prior to me stepping in and playing with her.  If my subject is a terrific playmate, then they can play all the way back to the truck whether it’s 5 minutes or 30 minutes.  I then put the dog up in the truck with lots of praise, and that’s a wrap.  Dogs don’t work for free. So make sure they get paid!

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